Friday Night Dinner: Artean
San Sebastián, a city in the basqueland region of Northern Spain, is known as a culinary hot spot. It is therefore not short of plenty of pinxtos restaurants, fine dining, and a galaxy of Michelin stars.
Artean is a small restaurant in the Gross area, not far from the beach. It has twelve seats, at the bar only. The bar chairs are comfy, and sitting at the bar creates an intimate atmosphere. The chefs are from Peru, and have worked in Michelin starred places, but the person serving was Danish. Artean does not have a star (yet?).
We were the first customers that evening and got to choose our seats, which we did, near the kitchen towards the end of the bar counter.
They offer a seven-course tasting menu (at €90), but also have an à la carte menu. We picked our meal from the latter. As our starters, we picked a selection of tapas. While waiting for them to be served, a lovely bread and a shot glass of a fresh and flavoursome gazpacho got us in the mood. A lovely crisp white Leirana wine made it to our table too.
Our selection started with dressed oysters, and topped with salmon roe, served in a boat shaped bowl. They were slightly acidic, but the dressing toned it nicely down. Fat and juicy anchovies on toast, with a nice layer of butter in between then followed. And finally a duo of scallop gildas. Each consistent of two scallop halves slightly seared, on a bed of creamed parmigiana reggiano, roasted tomato, and topped with an olive, some anchovies and pine nuts. It was plated up right in front of us.
After the starters we each chose a different main. My wife selected the catch of the day, a moist piece of hake on a pea oil, served with a couple grilled shrimps with a piece of samphire on top, which was delicious. I decided on the grilled octopus with green beans and pine nuts. It was a little sticky from a dressing, and cooked perfectly with a little bounce.
After we finished our meal, we moved to a separate set of stools in front of their window for our dessert. That was all our doing as we had probably been a little slow with dinner. Here we enjoyed a dessert wine each, and a sheep's milk curd, topped with blue cheese, cider ice cream. Yum!
Artean was a perfect meal, incorporating local flavours and ingredients with hints of Peru. And all at a very reasonable price. We would certainly return if we're in town again.
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